Finding the Authentic and the Ethical in Thailand: Villages and Elephant Parks

All countries in the modern world nurture two potentially conflicting sides. On one hand, it's important for the people of any nation to know and feel a part of a cultural narrative; to feel a part of something shared with a wider community. On the other, countries have to strive to modernise and remain relevant on the world stage. Thailand is steeped in ancient legends and tradition, but in many ways, it feels much more modern than many of its regional and global counterparts. There is a clear conflict between history and a movement towards the future here, and no place resonates this feeling more than the heart of the country itself; Bangkok.

Thailand's capital is by no means running behind the times, boasting every major and minor

convenience a traveller could ask for on their journeys. This may not sound surprising except to those familiar with the region from 10 to 20 years ago when the same could not be said. Transport is now very easy to find and often fairly comfortable if you're willing to spend a few extra Baht. However, these achievements in modernisation have resulted in a loss of spirit and connection to an ideal - or perhaps just romanticised - past. Having spoken to expatriates who have been living in Thailand for several decades I felt a sense of loss. They spoke fondly of a Thailand only recently changed; a Thailand that was less of an easy tourist destination and more of land for personal adventure and individual discovery, where every new temple hidden between old city walls was a gem. In today's Thailand, there are very few hidden spots to be discovered by the more intrepid tourists. But is that necessarily a bad thing?

The other nations of South East Asia lie below Thailand on the human development index, reflecting a strengthening economy for the Thai people. Monopolising on a well developed tourism industry is but one (however large) factor that has enabled Thailand to thrive. With this in mind, it's natural that the country would target this sector with its national budget, improving the country for the people while also making tourism easier and more profitable.

It is true that in 2022 you will be less likely to find temples shrouded in thick jungle or quaint villages of locals who care little for a wider nation, but they are still out there. The others are now easier to find and easier to get to, albeit for a slightly more expensive ticket. For many interested parties, the knack now is to find authentic, genuine parts of Thailand as untouched by the superficial veneer of the tourism industry as possible. There are so many interesting things to do in the country, and there is little more advice that I could give to encompass them all than 'do your research'. This is particularly prudent for any activities that have ethical implications. Here are a couple of examples.

The two most popular unique activities that will be presented to you on your travels here are a visit to an elephant "sanctuary" (which we'll cover in a sec) and visiting the villages of ethnic minorities. The latter of the two may sound slightly strange and I won't lie, the experience itself is. I spent about an hour at a Karen village - locally called 'long neck' due to their iconic ringed necklaces. They are refugees fleeing the civil strife and political turmoil in Myanmar to the north. I was hoping to speak with them about their situation and see how they were faring in their new home. To my surprise, I found that they too had adapted by learning from the Thai ability with tourists. We were led into the village to emerge in a small market square. Not a square designed for the Karen or the Thai, but tourists. All around the stalls sat women of all ages using hand looms to craft silk scarves, or whittling small wooden Karen figures. Very few men were present and none in cultural dress. They were not the attraction.

It's hard to decide whether what you see is genuine, and it would be impossible to find the genuine from particularly touristy villages by checking for guides online. But much like Thailand itself, this blend of strong cultural tradition and opportunism can't be discredited as fake or labelled as 'not genuine', because it is. Importantly, the donations tourists make to enter the village or money spent at the market still go towards helping people in need, displaced from their homes. Just be prepared for a truly unique experience.

The other major attraction to Thailand is the wildlife, none more prominent than everyone's favourite; the elephants. Finding an ethical option is particularly difficult because of how Thai tourism has adapted to ethical concerns. It's conflicting for tourists because anyone who wants to see these beautiful creatures will want to interact with them too. However, these visitors also likely don't want to fund animal abuse, so it is worth doing some reading. To start, do not ride or bathe the animals. Many parks offer both or one of these as a way to get tourists in, and labelling themselves as a sanctuary gives a positive impression, implying that the site is somehow regulated by a wider governing body. This is not the case. In Thailand, there is nothing to determine who has the right to call their park a sanctuary, so don't be fooled by an appealing facade. Many even emphasise 'no riding' as they know tourists are ethically concerned with how the elephants are treated. Riding is obviously not in the elephants' interests. The area behind an elephant's head where riders traditionally sit is in fact very sensitive, so having a 50-100kg ape up there is not comfortable. Bathing is not so clearly a bad idea, as it seems like a kind gesture to help the animals stay clean. Unfortunately, this is detrimental to the elephants' skin, which if overwashed will become too exposed to the sun and become damaged. Many elephants wash themselves in mud or sand as an effective sunscreen. They're not interested in looking their best for that cute bull on the other side of the river. Essentially, the more hands-OFF a park is with its resident trumpeters, the better.

Tourism in Thailand has grown to be smart and rapidly adaptive to the needs and wants of its target audience; you. Tour guides, hostels and the government will recommend and fund what they think you will enjoy the most to encourage you to strengthen their economy and recommend the country to your friends back home. As the traveller, it is your responsibility to put your money where your morals lie, not rely on the residents of a strong but developing nation trying to build itself up. And don't be discouraged that you will be bombarded by the tourist industry at every turn, as there are many ways to get away from it. Thailand has a lot to offer foreign visitors of all interests, but there is nearly always a price. There are also some hidden spots left as well, but you will have to do your research, and if you want to have a good time without making anyone else's time worse, (including the elephants) do. your. research.